Squaring the table and setting the fence.

A bandsaw can only cut square if its table is square to the blade, and it can only rip straight if the fence allows for the way the blade cuts. Both take a few minutes with a square and a scrap of wood, and both are worth checking after a blade change, after moving the saw and whenever cuts come out out of square.

Square the table to the blade.

1. Raise the upper guide so you can get a square against the blade.
2. Check with a square on the table against the side of the blade body, between the teeth, not against the teeth themselves, which are set outwards.
3. Adjust the tilt until the square sits flat against the blade, then lock the table.
4. Set the stop. Most tables have an adjustable stop or bolt for the 90° position. Set it so the table returns to square after tilting, and set the scale pointer to 0°.
5. Check with a cut. Cut a block of scrap, stand the two halves on edge, flip one over and put them together. Any gap shows twice the error.

Check the table insert and slot.

The insert around the blade should sit flush with the table so work doesn’t catch on it. If the table has a slot to the edge, the pin or bolt that closes it keeps the two halves of the table level; make sure it is fitted.

Set up the fence.

Many bandsaw blades don’t cut exactly parallel to the table edge. This “drift” or “lead” comes from the blade, especially from uneven set, rather than from the saw. If you lock the fence parallel to the blade and the blade drifts, the work is pushed against the fence and the cut wanders. There are two ways to deal with it:

• Angle the fence to suit. Draw a line parallel to the edge of a scrap board and cut freehand along it for about half its length. Stop with the board in place, switch off, and note the angle of the board. Set the fence to that angle. Many fences can be adjusted for it; check your manual.
• Use a single-point guide for resawing, a rounded guide you steer the board against by hand.

A new, sharp blade with even set usually drifts less, and the drift can change when the blade does. Check again with each new blade. Resawing explains how to use the fence for tall cuts.

The mitre gauge.

If your saw has a mitre slot, set the mitre gauge square to the blade with a square, and set its 90° stop. For crosscuts the drift matters less, because the cut is short.