Ordering a blade welded to length.

Common lengths such as 93-1/2 in or 2240 mm are sold everywhere. If your saw takes something less common, such as 1425 mm or an old length nobody stocks, a blade welded to order is the answer. Many blade suppliers cut blade stock from a coil and weld it into a loop of any length you ask for, often within a few days. The result is only as good as the details you give them.

What to tell the supplier.

• The length, exactly as your manual or BenchRefill documents it, in the unit it was given. Say clearly that it is the loop length. If you only have a measurement, say so; see measuring a blade or belt.
• The width, within the range your saw is documented for.
• The thickness, if your manual gives one or a maximum. Thin blades suit small wheels.
• Teeth per inch and tooth form, for the work you do: for example 6 TPI hook for general wood, 3 TPI for resawing, or a fine variable pitch for metal. See choosing TPI.
• The material: carbon steel for most wood, bi-metal for metal and abrasive woods. See carbon, bi-metal or carbide.
• The saw: brand and model. A good supplier will notice if something doesn’t add up.

Ask what length tolerance they work to. Welded blades can come out slightly longer or shorter than ordered, and a saw with little tensioner travel, such as a small benchtop model, has less room for error.

When it arrives.

• Check the length on the label and, if you are unsure, measure it before fitting.
• Look at the weld. It should be flat and smooth on both sides, with the back edge straight through the joint and no step or hump. The tooth spacing should carry on evenly across the weld.
• Feel the back edge through the weld with a gloved finger. A bump there will knock against the thrust bearing on every turn.
• Run it gently at first. Fit, tension and track the blade as usual, then watch the weld go round a few times with the saw running, from a safe distance, before cutting.

If the weld cracks or breaks after little use, return the blade; a good weld should outlast the teeth.

Welding your own.

Workshops that use a lot of blades sometimes buy blade stock by the coil and join it themselves, with a blade welder or by silver brazing. It needs the right equipment and practice to make a joint that runs smoothly and doesn’t break, so for occasional blades a supplier is usually the better choice.