Buying a used bandsaw or belt sander.

A good bandsaw or sander lasts decades, and the second-hand market is full of them. Most problems with a used machine are cheap to fix if you know about them before you pay, and expensive if you find them afterwards. Take this list, a torch and a tape measure, and ask to see the machine running.

Before you go.

• Get the exact model. Ask for a photo of the plate. The model label guide shows what to look for.
• Check the blade or belt size. Look the model up on BenchRefill. If the size is documented, you know what to buy; if it is an unusual length, check that blades or belts are still sold in it.
• Find the manual. Many manufacturers publish manuals and parts lists online. A machine with no manual and no parts list is harder to keep running.
• Check the power. The plate gives the voltage and phase. A three-phase machine won’t run on a household supply without a converter, and in the UK a 110 V site machine needs a transformer.

On a bandsaw.

• Tyres. Open the wheel covers with the power off. The rubber tyres on the wheels should be smooth, firmly seated and free of cracks, grooves or flat spots. Replacement tyres are available for most saws but add to the cost.
• Wheel bearings. With the blade tension off, rock each wheel by its rim. Play or a gritty feel when you spin it means worn bearings.
• Tension. Check that the tension knob moves the upper wheel smoothly through its range and that the spring isn’t collapsed. A saw that can’t tension a wide blade won’t resaw well.
• Guides and thrust bearings. Blocks should be flat and adjustable; bearings should spin freely and quietly. Missing or seized guides are common on old saws.
• Table and trunnions. The table should tilt smoothly and lock firmly, and be flat across the blade slot. Check that the table insert and the slot pin are there.
• Running. The saw should run without knocking or vibration. Watch the blade from the front: it should run steady, not wobble from side to side. A test cut in scrap shows more than any description.
• Configuration. Check whether a riser block or other modification has been fitted; it changes the blade length. See riser blocks.

On a belt sander.

• Rollers and drums. They should be round, smooth and spin freely, without grooves worn into them.
• Platen. The flat plate behind the belt should be flat, and any cork or graphite pad intact.
• Tracking and tension. Fit a belt, or watch the seller do it, and check that the tracking control moves the belt and that it stays centred.
• Motor and switch. Listen for rough bearings, and check that the switch, the speed control if there is one, and the dust bag or port all work.

Price in the extras.

A new blade or a set of belts, tyres, guide parts and a mobile base can add a fair amount to a cheap machine. Add them up before you agree a price; a well-kept machine with its manual and accessories is often worth more than a bargain that needs everything.